THE AQUARIUM

THE AQUARIUM

Setting Up the Aquarium

The best approach is to decide on the types of fish you want before selecting the tank. However, this is not strictly necessary.

  • Place the aquarium in a suitable location (see "Choosing the Tank Location").

  • Rinse the inside of the tank thoroughly and check for leaks.

  • Apply background paper or foil to the exterior of the tank�s back panel if desired.

  • If using cable heating, install the cables according to the manufacturer�s instructions.

  • If an undergravel filtration system is being used, place the filter plates inside the tank.

  • Arrange any decorative rocks or driftwood, securing them as needed with fishing line. Heavy rocks should rest directly on the tank floor, ideally on a piece of Styrofoam for added stability.

  • For planted tanks, add a base fertilizer following the package instructions.

  • Rinse the gravel thoroughly to remove dust and debris. This can be done using a bucket and strainer.

  • Add the gravel (see "Gravel" on pg. 4-2). If possible, use gravel from an established tank to introduce beneficial nitrifying bacteria. The gravel also helps anchor rock structures. If creating a "banked" or "terraced" layout, set up the necessary supports before adding the gravel.

  • Install the filter (see "Filtration" on pg. 4-3). If available, use some filter media from an established tank to speed up the nitrogen cycling process.

  • Install the heater but do not plug it in yet (see "Heater" on pg. 4-3).

  • Install the thermometer (see "Thermometer" on pg. 4-3).

  • Begin filling the tank with water at a cool to lukewarm temperature (68-72�F / 20-22�C). Use a hose and direct the stream onto a rock or into a container to avoid disturbing the gravel. Add a water conditioner to neutralize chlorine and other harmful substances.

  • Once the tank is more than halfway full, introduce aquatic plants. Hardy, fast-growing species such as Vallisneria, Hygrophila, Java Moss, and Amazon Swords are ideal for new setups. Plant taller species in the back and shorter ones in the front. Delicate species like Cryptocoryne should be added after the tank has stabilized (approximately 2-3 months).

  • Install the lighting (see "Lighting" on pg. 4-2).

  • Once the tank is full, plug in the heater (after ensuring it has been submerged for at least 20 minutes).

  • After an hour, check the heater. If the pilot light has turned off, verify the temperature. Adjust the heater as needed.

  • Test the water�s pH and hardness to ensure it matches the requirements of the intended fish species. If necessary, adjust the pH using aquarium-safe products.

  • Once the temperature is stable, introduce a small number of hardy fish, such as Zebra Danios, barbs, or robust tetras. To acclimate them, float the unopened bag in the aquarium for 10-15 minutes. Gradually introduce small amounts of tank water into the bag every few minutes. After sufficient acclimation, net the fish and transfer them to the tank, avoiding the addition of pet store water, which may contain unwanted contaminants or medications.

  • Place the cover on the aquarium.
Now that the initial setup is complete, the tank needs to "cycle" (see "Water Chemistry").

During this time, fish should be fed lightly once a day, and water conditions should be monitored two to three times a week. The fastest way to cycle a tank is by adding gravel or biological filter media from an established aquarium. Alternatively, commercially available nitrifying bacteria cultures can help speed up the process. Without these additions, cycling typically takes three to six weeks. After two to three days, fish waste and plant decomposition will cause ammonia levels to rise. As Nitrosomonas bacteria convert ammonia into nitrite, ammonia levels will decline while nitrite levels increase. Eventually, Nitrobacter bacteria will establish themselves and convert nitrite into nitrate. Nitrate levels will continue to rise until a water change is performed.

Perform the first water change (50%) after one week, followed by 25-33% changes every three days for the next two to three weeks.

Less hardy fish can be introduced once the tank has fully cycled-when ammonia and nitrite levels are nearly undetectable. Fish should be added gradually. For example, in a 10-gallon tank, do not introduce 10 new fish at once; instead, add them over several weeks.

For best results, add new fish at night with the lights off or while feeding the existing fish. This minimizes aggression by distracting the resident fish. In tanks with territorial species, rearrange decorations before adding new fish and introduce them at night to reduce aggression. By morning, the residents will have to re-establish territories alongside the newcomers.




Aquarium Maintenance

Cleaning the Aquarium

Regular cleaning is essential for maintaining a healthy aquarium. Tanks with heavy fish loads, sensitive species, or frequent overfeeding require more frequent water changes-typically every one to two weeks. In lightly stocked tanks, water changes may only be necessary every three to six weeks. Neglecting regular maintenance can harm the tank�s inhabitants.

Here are some guidelines for routine aquarium cleaning:
  • Turn off all electrical equipment to reduce the risk of electric shock.

  • Algae can accumulate on the glass and decorations, especially if no algae-eating fish are present. Remove algae from glass using an algae scrubber. Magnetic scrubbers allow cleaning without getting your hands wet. Use a toothbrush or scrubber for rocks and decorations, but remember that some algal growth benefits certain fish. If algae eaters are present, leave some algae in unobtrusive areas.

  • Occasionally, mineral deposits form on the tank hood and edges. These can be scrubbed off using water. For stubborn deposits, use vinegar, but rinse thoroughly before placing objects back in the tank.

  • Trim dead or excess plant growth to maintain a clean appearance and healthy aquatic environment.

  • Use a siphon or gravel vacuum to clean the substrate. To start the siphon, submerge the hose, cover one end with your finger, position it below the tank level, and release. Be cautious not to suck up fish. Depending on tank conditions, remove 15-40% of the water. If the tank is especially dirty, remove up to 70% of the water. However, if the tank has been neglected for a long time, avoid sudden large water changes; instead, perform smaller changes over a week to prevent shocking the fish.

  • Clean the filter according to the manufacturer's instructions. If the filter has multiple compartments, clean only one at a time to preserve beneficial bacteria. When cleaning biological filter media, use cool dechlorinated water rather than hot water, which could kill beneficial bacteria. Avoid detergents or disinfectants, as they are harmful to aquarium ecosystems.

  • Refill the tank with conditioned water that matches the existing water�s temperature and chemistry. Pour water in slowly or use a strainer to prevent disturbing the substrate.

  • Level out the gravel if it has been displaced.

  • Restart the filter. If using a canister filter, remove any trapped air bubbles to ensure proper function. Power filters should be primed with water before being turned on.

  • Turn on electrical equipment.

  • Replace the cover.

  • Wipe the exterior glass with aquarium-safe cleaner, ensuring no chemicals enter the tank.
Note: Some filter flow rates are measured when the filter is empty. When filled with media, the actual flow rate may be lower than advertised.



Plants and Furnishings | Set Up and Maintenance